Touchdown in the city of Tango. Buenos Aires is Argentina’s capital and a hub of must-do activities.
1. Learn to Tango
Lessons at La Catedral del Tango in Saramiento are legendary. Beginner’s classes start at 8pm and 10:30pm (but this is South America so they’re rarely punctual). Fortunately the vibrant atmosphere makes waiting fun. Professional Tango dancers and orchestra music occurs sometime after midnight. If you just want a short taste of a tango lesson, book our 'Evening Dinner and Tango' show at La Ventana, which comes with an hour’s lesson beforehand.
2. Watch a Boca football match
To compare a New Zealand rugby game to a Boca football match is akin to comparing a Mazda hatchback with a Bugatti Veyron. Sure, one is perfectly enjoyable - and great for the family - but the other will leave your heart in your mouth. Come match-night, Boca’s home stadium, Bombonera, is crammed with zealous supporters. Loud and chaotic, it’s quite the experience and like a Bugatti, well worth the expenditure.
3. Spend large at San Telmo Market
Sundays are most enjoyable in Buenos Aires because there are so many markets to meander through. Hosted in its namesake suburb every Sunday, San Telmo Market hosts 270 stalls and up to 12,000 people perusing its knick-knacks. If you don’t like hordes, antiques and artwork, this one isn’t for you. For everyone else – notably the foragers – stock up on cool oddities (such as vintage telephones and throw back souvenirs) as well as dulce de leche samples, served straight from the saucepan.
4. Find the gaucho market on the outside of town
For the most amazing and truly local market in the city, try the ‘Matadores Market’, boasting an enticing array of food, artisans, arts and crafts. It’s a 40 minute drive from the centre of Buenos Aires, but well worth it. Every Sunday, Argentine cowboys, known as gauchos, show off their greatest horsemen skills, while folk tunes are played and regional cuisine is served. As the borough’s only tourist attraction, its authenticity shines through. Plan your Sunday to start at the Matadores Markets, stop in at San Telmo markets, and make your last stop at the Recoleta markets, just outside the cemetery at Recoleta park.
5. Get an unavoidable dulce de leche addiction
Aforementioned above, if you have a sweet weakness, Argentina’s infamous dulce de leche is a must. A sugary paste-like syrup made from condensed milk, you won’t be judged for spooning it straight from the jar. However, pancakes packed with the gooey goodness are recommended. The renowned parrilla, Don Julio, in Palermo Soho is mostly meat-centric, but the dessert menu honours the equally delicious dulce de leche crepes.
6. Eat empanadas in the park
Gorgeous green parks are as plentiful as the kiosks selling empanadas. A bevy of restaurants have curb-side glass cabinets stocked with delicious takeaway pastries. Buy half a dozen and head to the park for an empanada picnic. One of our favourite green spaces is Bosques de Palermo. Find manicured pathways, lakes, cool woodland and lush lawns.
7. Visit a traditional steak house
Eat steak. Because you’re in Buenos Aires and nowhere does it better. Rodi Bar is a traditional steak house enjoyed by locals and void of a tourist price tag. Calabaza (sweet potato) and potato fries are a must, but arrive early because it’s packed late into the night. FYI, an Argentinian ‘early’ is between 7pm and 8pm.
8. And a parilla too
Parrillas are both a typical Argentine steakhouse, and the name for a metal cooking grill. Most Argentinian houses have parrillas, while the restaurants serve almost exclusively meat. As well as Don Julio, other highly regarded parrillas include La Cabrera in Palermo, notably for its gigantic two-pound sirloins. There’s also Parrilla Peña. A local fave, it’s unpretentious and authentically Argentine.
9. Meet Victoria Brown
Arguably serving Buenos Aires’ best cocktails, Victoria Brown is located in the trendy Palermo neighbourhood, behind a somewhat unassuming café door. Displaying an industrial-style décor dotted with sofas and table booths, it's intimate and on-trend.
10. Listen to the drums at Bomba del Tiempo
A 17-man percussion ensemble takes place every Monday at the Konex club. Yes it saturates the guidebooks, but you’ll find an equal amount of Porteños (Buenos Aires residents) also enjoying the rhythm of these energetic drummers. The beer’s not bad either.
11. Discover little-known Tigre
Drive 30 minutes north of Buenos Aires and you’ll find Tigre, the gateway to the rivers and wetlands of the Paraná Delta. Peaceful canals call for kayaking and canoeing, while restaurants flank the riverside. There’s also the Mate Museum. Mate is Argentina’s tea-like drink which you’ll see them drinking everywhere – from portable flasks and bulbus metal canters with straws. The museum details Mate’s history and better still, has a mate bar.
12. Hangout in Recoleta
There is something quite beautiful, albeit haunting, about the various mausoleums in Cementerio de la Recoleta. So rich in gravestones, it’s almost a city in itself, with lane after lane of memorials. It is also the final resting place of Eva Peron. Ask about her whereabouts since her death in 1952, some of the stories are deeply fascinating.
BUENOS AIRES TIP SHEET
1. GETTING THERE.
Air New Zealand fly direct from Auckland to Buenos Aires in approx. 11h 45m.
2. TRANSPORT.
The "Subte" is the subway system in Buenos Aires. Uber is no longer operating, but the following taxi companies are reliable:
- Radio Taxi Premium
- Pidalo
- Radio Taxi Del Plata
3. VISIT.
We recommend 4-5 nights in Buenos Aires. A great addition is to head out of the city and spend a night or two at a traditional Estancia, and live like a Gaucho local for a day or two.
4. FAMILIES.
Buenos Aires is packed with kid-focused museums, plazas and parks, many with playgrounds. The majority of hotels accept children and restaurants offer child-friendly meals. Porteños (BA locals) families are renowned for staying up late – expect to see young kids still out at midnight with their parents
5. VISAS.
New Zealand passport holders do not require a visa to enter Argentina as a tourist. With a valid New Zealand passport you can be granted a 90-day stay.
6. WHEN TO GO.
Argentina has the same southern hemisphere seasons as ourselves. The weather in Buenos Aires is ideal in autumn (March - May) and spring (September - November).
7. IN AN EMERGENCY.
Call 911 for all emergency services.
8. HEALTH.
Both tap water and ice are deemed safe in Buenos Aires, although most people prefer to drink bottled water.
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